The Michel Chapoutier winery is a jewel of the Rhône Valley. It was founded in 1808 and is part of the history of the Côtes-du-Rhône. With the arrival of Michel Chapoutier in 1990, his leadership transformed the philosophy of winemaking in the Rhône. This philosophy is based on two basic principles: first, to seek out terroirs and get as close to them as possible, so much so that the plot becomes more important than the work of the winemaker. M. Chapoutier's viticulture is to reveal the terroir in the wine and this gives an incredible richness to the wines. Most of the wines from the Rhône are made from Syrah, and also Grenache, but M. Chapoutier's Syrah is different, it feels different. They work rigorously under the principles of biodynamics. M. Chapoutier has a very extensive line of wines and they all follow the same principle, the vintage year is left as is: no chaptalization, no added yeast or acidifiers. It is composed of chloritic and ferruginous mica schists, mixed in the loess depressions and veins of soil. The parcel that produces this wine is on the edge of the Côte Blonde. I may be going out on a limb, but I think the 2006 Côté Rôtie La Mordorée is the best example of Chapoutier's 100% Syrah Côté Rôtie since his 1991. Inky purple to the rim without a hint of aggression, the wine flows smoothly across the palate, with layers of black fruits, cherries, licorice, graphite, and some notes of roasted meat and tapenade. This is a sensational, multi-dimensional Cote Rotie that I suspect will be drinkable in 3-4 years, and will evolve beautifully over two decades. (Robert Parker SIC) RP 96-98
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